The auberges and refuges are a mixed bag- they are all more or less equally exorbitant for a group of four sleeping in bunk beds, but not equal in food, friendliness or quality. We only stayed in six, because we used hotels in Les Houches and Courmayeur.
Here are the ones that stood out for us:
Auberge de Bionnassay:
This auberge, a converted 18th century traditional post and beam farm building, was in the perfect place for our jet lagged group- roughly three hours from Les Houches. We stayed in the lofty dorm room, which we had to share with only two other hikers. It would be snug, I suspect, at the height of the season in the bunks.
The proprietor Walter was cheerful and friendly, and our dinner of roasted spare ribs was quite delicious. We arrived early, which gave us time to wander around the little hamlet of Bionnassay and take in the local architecture. The first floor of the auberge is where their resident donkey and llama live, along with a bunch of chickens and spotted bunnies. If you can't spend the night, at least stop for lunch.
Chalet Refuge de Nant Borrant:
If I could only visit one of the inns we stayed at again, it would be Nant Borrant- in business since 1870 as a stopping point for people crossing over from Les Chapieux. I loved everything about it, from the location just before heading up to and over the Col du Bonhomme at the top of the Roman Road, the view, the cozy rooms, the food and the owners. When we decided we would not attempt the Col due to the snow, they very kindly arranged for a van to pick us up at Notre Dame de la Gorge at the bottom of the hill, and called ahead to Auberge de la Nova in Les Chapieux. Dinner was delicious local fare, and their bag lunch the following day was the best of all the places we stayed.
Note on lunches: There is a great, big Carrefour grocery store in Chamonix not too far from the bus station and smaller ones in Les Houches and in Courmayeur. Stock up on lunch stuff here and you will save a bundle.
Here are the ones that stood out for us:
Auberge de Bionnassay:
This auberge, a converted 18th century traditional post and beam farm building, was in the perfect place for our jet lagged group- roughly three hours from Les Houches. We stayed in the lofty dorm room, which we had to share with only two other hikers. It would be snug, I suspect, at the height of the season in the bunks.
The proprietor Walter was cheerful and friendly, and our dinner of roasted spare ribs was quite delicious. We arrived early, which gave us time to wander around the little hamlet of Bionnassay and take in the local architecture. The first floor of the auberge is where their resident donkey and llama live, along with a bunch of chickens and spotted bunnies. If you can't spend the night, at least stop for lunch.
Chalet Refuge de Nant Borrant:
If I could only visit one of the inns we stayed at again, it would be Nant Borrant- in business since 1870 as a stopping point for people crossing over from Les Chapieux. I loved everything about it, from the location just before heading up to and over the Col du Bonhomme at the top of the Roman Road, the view, the cozy rooms, the food and the owners. When we decided we would not attempt the Col due to the snow, they very kindly arranged for a van to pick us up at Notre Dame de la Gorge at the bottom of the hill, and called ahead to Auberge de la Nova in Les Chapieux. Dinner was delicious local fare, and their bag lunch the following day was the best of all the places we stayed.
Note on lunches: There is a great, big Carrefour grocery store in Chamonix not too far from the bus station and smaller ones in Les Houches and in Courmayeur. Stock up on lunch stuff here and you will save a bundle.
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